Bringing Ulos to the Global Stage “From Village to Global”

For the third time, JYK Label presents its collection in Milan through the Emerging Talent Fashion Show during Milan Fashion Week on February 24, 2024, at 7:00 PM Italian time, located at Palazzo Bocconi, Corso Venezia 48, Milan, Italy. In 2021, JYK’s collection featuring Batik successfully captured the attention of various media and communities in Italy. In 2022, JYK even received the ‘The Genius of Versace’ award.

This time, designer Jenny Yohana Kansil through the JYK label once again showcases and explores the richness of Nusantara textiles by delving into the Batak Ulos from North Sumatra. Jenny Yohana Kansil believes, ‘the world needs to know that traditional Indonesian fabrics are not limited to batik, but also encompass various types, one of which is woven fabrics, such as Ulos.’

JYK chose the fashion season of 2024/2025 as the opportune moment to introduce Ulos.

Through this collection, JYK aims to convey the philosophy of Ulos as a symbol of a blanket, representing protection from the cold that strikes during autumn and winter. Thus, this collection not only presents aesthetic beauty but also carries a profound meaning of preserving and nurturing Indonesian cultural heritage.”

“Some important values that JYK Label aims to convey through the theme ‘Dalihan Na Tolu’ are balance, respect, and empowerment of women as the foundation of stability in societal relationships. The philosophy of Dalihan na Tolu, highly esteemed by the Batak people, the indigenous tribe of North Sumatra, signifies that Dalihan is the meeting place, while Na Tolu represents the three basic supports.

Dalihan Na Tolu depicts unity in familial relationships in Batak culture. These three elements are dongan sabutuha (siblings), hula-hula (maternal family), and boru (daughters). This philosophy has been upheld and practiced since ancient times, where by nurturing the culture of Dalihan na Tolu, the Batak community can live with marsipasangapan (mutual respect), thus the Batak tribe is known for its strong kinship ties.

Batak culture highly values women based on the philosophy of Dalihan na Tolu, as women are considered the source of lineage and blessings in the family. The symbol of Dalihan Na Tolu is a triangle, which is then used by the JYK Label as a silhouette and construction in this collection. This time, JYK presents 4 clothing looks for men and 6 clothing looks for women.”

“JYK uses black as a symbol of stability, gold ornaments as a symbol of glory and triumph, red as a symbol of confidence, and white as a symbol of freedom and openness in a sincere and unadorned sense.

She adds that the fabric used in this collection is chosen to create a sense of stability and strength, including materials such as mikado, wool, suiting, silk charmeuse, and taffeta, balanced with organza and soft fabrics like chiffon and silk charmeuse. In this latest collection, JYK combines elements of traditional Batak culture with Italian architectural styles, particularly Gothic style with its geometric characteristics and large windows, along with the dramatic style of Italian baroque.

This is an integral part of the JYK Label identity, which I refer to as ‘Akin’, meaning always drawing inspiration from the cultural roots of the designer, who also has Batak heritage and gained experience while studying fashion at the Istituto di Moda Burgo in Milan, Italy.

Architecture is one of the common threads that connects Batak and Italian culture. Although their cultural origins differ, Batak architecture and Gothic style share similarities, especially in the presence of Gorga and Gargoyle, which have become distinctive features of Gothic architecture and were established for protection,” Jenny explains.

“At one point, JYK had the opportunity to visit a very particular basilica, the iconic church of Sant’Antonio, in the city of Padua (Padova), where Sant’Antonio has a Gothic style on the exterior and a baroque style decoration on the interior, especially in the chapel of relics. The ‘left field’ character of the JYK label in this collection is inspired by the church of Sant’ Antonio, which has a highly geometric Gothic style with its large windows on the outside, but when entering the church, one is presented with a truly different style. The interior of the Sant’Antonio cathedral feels very dramatic, majestic, elegant, and rich in excessive detail.

JYK’s audacious DNA is also reflected in this collection, with geometric silhouettes inspired by the philosophy of Dalihan Na Tolu and Gothic architecture, combined with the boldness of voluminous draping and striking details and applications in each appearance, creating a luxurious and dramatic baroque theatrical impression. JYK breaks the tradition of Ulos by modernizing it while still being the centerpiece of each appearance.”

“When creating this ‘Dalihan Na Tolu’ collection, I now pay more attention to my Batak mother’s culture, which I am very proud of. I have found a deep philosophy of the Batak people that perfectly represents the story of this collection. I want to dedicate this collection to my mother,” she says.

A glimpse of the story about Ulos:

Ulos is the traditional fabric of the Batak tribe in North Sumatra, Indonesia, symbolizing deep cultural and spiritual symbolism as well as the distinctive identity and values of the Batak. The making of Ulos fabric is very complex, usually using cotton or silk threads and dyed by soaking the threads in natural dyes derived from plants, the Ulos weaver patiently and meticulously weaves thread by thread using manually operated traditional looms.

The making of Ulos can take months, and the Ulos weaver, known as ‘partonun,’ weaves Ulos while praying for the wearer to always be protected and blessed. There are still many types of Ulos with their respective uses, from various regions in North Sumatra. However, generally speaking, the names, motifs, and uses are the same.

JYK x Torang Sitorus:

JYK partners with Torang Sitorus, who is a renowned Ulos maestro in Indonesia. Publishing his own book titled ‘The Batak Ulos’ proves that Torang Sitorus is legitimate and has solidified his legacy and dedication in preserving Ulos fabric.

Torang Sitorus’s book discusses all types of Ulos from each region in North Sumatra. Thus, future generations can always obtain accurate information about Ulos in North Sumatra.

What amazes JYK is that Torang Sitorus nurtures the Ulos weavers to have high skills.

Ulos produced under the Torang Sitorus brand is known for its best quality with a modern appearance in North Sumatra.
Unexpectedly, Torang Sitorus provides the ‘Ulos Tumtuman’ Masterpiece to be used by JYK for its latest collection.

Ulos Tumtuman embodies the philosophy of happiness and harmony.

Unlike ordinary Ulos, which are stiff and shiny, Torang Sitorus’s Ulos is very soft, using silk threads and modern motifs. Only weavers with high skills and experience can make this masterpiece Ulos.

Together with Torang Sitorus, JYK Label appreciates the Ulos weavers by bringing Ulos to the international stage; from the village to the global. This is Ulos for the future.

For this collection presentation, JYK is always fully supported by Istituto di Moda Burgo in Milan, Italy (IG: @istitutodimodaburgo) and the team from Istituto di Moda Burgo Indonesia (IG: Burgo_Indonesia).