Consistent in highlighting Indonesia’s heritage, designer Jenny Yohana Kansil, through her label JYK, this time explores the riches of Ulos Batak, North Sumatra. She displayed it at the Spotlight Indonesia 2023 fashion show entitled “Ulos” Spring Summer 24 which took place at the Great Hall, Pos Bloc Jakarta, on Saturday (18/11).

Jenny revealed, after experiencing the pandemic and the Ukraine-Russia war, and as we continue to recover from these traumatic experiences, we are now facing human rights violations, such as the sad events that occurred in Gaza. The threat of greater economic turmoil adds to our fear of an uncertain and unstable future. In the midst of these challenges, we should acknowledge and be grateful that our beloved country is now in a state of peace, and the economy is gradually recovering. However, a significant election awaits us.

This collection serves as a reminder that, despite the great differences between us, we must still work together to uphold love, peace, unity, and harmony as we navigate our shared path to victory.

“This collection is an expression of our longing for stability and prosperity for all humanity, symbolizing our aspiration to enjoy the beautiful life that awaits us after a long and challenging period,” said Jenny.

She further added that the collection shown in Spotlight this time was also an introduction and the beginning of JYK Label Milan Fashion Week FW 24/25.

Collection Inspiration

“Because now I pay more attention to my mother’s Batak culture, which she is very proud of. I find the deep philosophy of Ulos perfectly represents the story of this collection, and I also want to dedicate this collection to my mother,” she said.

Ulos is a traditional cloth of the Batak tribe in North Sumatra, Indonesia, which symbolizes deep cultural and spiritual symbolism and is characteristic of Batak identity and values. In Batak society, Ulos functions as a symbol of unity and harmony, used to resolve disputes and strengthen social bonds. When conflict arises, the exchange of Ulos signifies a gesture of reconciliation, a means of receiving, not just cloth, but also love itself — a prayer for protection and blessings, hoping for a prosperous and peaceful life journey.

Inspired by the timeless philosophy of Ulos, the JYK collection was created with the aim of fostering harmony and unity. By wearing the JYK label, one is enfolded in a sense of protection, blessing and affection, in line with the spirit of Ulos.

“In this collection, JYK Label will combine traditional Batak Ulos cloth with Italian Baroque style. The common thread from Ulos to Baroque Style comes from impressive architecture, even though the cultural origins are different, both Batak and Gothic architecture have similarities, especially the presence of Gorga and Gargoyles, which have become a characteristic feature of Gothic architecture, were most likely construct for protective purposes,” explains Jenny.

This is emphasized again by the Spring Summer 24 collection, which this time tends to be darker in tone. Because, Jenny said, this collection is also heavily inspired by the Mod and Beatnik styles of the 50s and 60s, with simple and clean lines with slim silhouettes that give an empowering and modern impression to women.

“The colors chosen represent the uncertainty of the path to glory, winning with confidence and courage,” he said.

She added that the fabrics used in this collection include mikado, wool twill and cotton.

“As part of the DNA of the JYK label, we once again aim to break the boundaries of tradition and combine it with a modern lifestyle. Our collection is aimed at contemporary hypebeast fashion, relevant for everyday wear while maintaining Indonesian identity,” she said.

In line with this show, JYK also presented muse Sarah Pia Desideria Pandjaitan, Puteri Indonesia North Sumatra 2022. Previously, Sarah also paid special attention to Ulos as an Indonesian cultural heritage fabric, which according to her deserves more attention and is known more widely. She also often wears and introduces Ulos nationally and internationally, including at New York Fashion Week 2023, and the Chicago Travel & Adventure Show in the United States as well as several other activities in an effort to introduce Ulos to the world as an intangible cultural heritage which is currently being registered UNESCO.

“I hope that this advocacy and effort can also continue with JYK in the upcoming Milan Fashion Week 2024 roadshow,” she said.

For this collection demonstration, JYK was fully supported by Istituto di Moda Burgo Indonesia, and also Uma Hapsari from shoe label Amazara. Uma, as stated by Jenny, is the muse of the JYK Label, where she is seen as a woman who fits the DNA of the JYK label, who is fashionable, successful, tough, and independent.

Apart from that, JYK also collaborated with Burgonian or Burgo Indonesia students, namely Caylie, for a collection of simple black dresses which were considered to represent the beatnik style and streamlined silhouettes which were considered fitting. This collaboration is intended because JYK Label also wants to provide experience and involve Burgonians in the fashion industry. Apart from Caylie, JYK also invited Burgonian Kezia as an assistant designer in terms of design development and label management, and Trixie who made the pattern in look 4 using the Shingo Sato technique, who had visited and made a workshop in Indonesia some time ago.

The fashion show, which was given the special title “Ulos” Spring Summer 24, took place at the Spotlight Indonesia 2023 event hosted by the Indonesia Fashion Chamber (IFC) in the Great Hall, Pos Bloc Jakarta, on Saturday, November 18 2023 at 16.30-17.30.

Federico Grandesso